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Cut2D Fill

I'm attempting to remove material from surrounding areas in wood to create a clean depth-effect and was wondering if this is possible using the Emblaser? I've contacted Vectric to ask them and their response was as follows:

"When using the Fill toolpath for a more even finish, a lower stepover will cut the the Hatch lines closer together.
The Angle option is only required if you are looking for a cut result that is not perfectly horizontal.

Due to the nature of the materials used and the width of the laser it may not be possible for a perfectly even material removal.
Increasing the number of passes should result in a deeper cut, but this is dependent on laser strength and material used."

Is it possible to receive the same results as shown in the image below?

Thank you!

Material Removed

Comments

  • We have done something similar to this using PicLaser Lite. We edited the image with PicEdit Lite and then generated the gcode with PLL. Then we used PicFRC to add a Feed Rate Change to the gcode and streamed it with PicSender.

    This can be done with just PLL, but will be allot slower then using our PicFRC software to modify the gcode. If you just use PLL, it will have to be set at a real slow feed rate and will run this feed rate through all the black & white areas. What PicFRC does, it generates a Feed Rate Change at the end of each line of gcode. In white areas it will back off the power to zero and speed up to full feedrate, then in black areas will go to full power and slow down to cut/burn in those areas.

    I just tested the type of code on the EmBlaser and it will run it with no problem. I used PicSender to stream it and not sure if UGS will run this type of code properly.

    What you would need is wood that does not have allot of grains so the laser cuts/burns out the areas needed consistently at a depth. The image needs to be converted to 1bit black & white so there are no power levels in between full & none.

    This process we developed can be seen here in our instructables in Step 12.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/Shapeoko-2-Arduino-UNO-R3-grbl-9g-8bit-Raster-Phot/

    We blurred the image first to get more of a 3D engraving effect, This ramped the power and speed in and out of the color changes. If you have the black & white color change real sharp, it will come out more like the 2.5D effect as in your example.

    We have been testing our FRC feature in PEP5 for the PWM the EmBlaser requires with the S commands and will be releasing it as an update very soon also.
  • Jeffery,

    Thank you so much for this information. I have yet to use PicLaser Lite because I don't understand how to scale images and what burn settings to use. I will need to become more familiar with that software before diving into PicEdit Lite and PicFRC. I have noticed that softer woods, such as pine or balsa, burn better than harder woods due to the grain density. I was hoping that by using Cut2D fill, I could remove the wood material as shown by using a small stepover such as 0.01. I can designate dark areas (black) to be engraved deeply by number of passes, stepover, power level and speed. Is this not the same thing that you were talking about?

    I appreciate your response! Thank you.
    Cut2D Fill
  • Hi Kathryn,

    I don't use Cut2d, therefor not familiar with it and will only suggest what I know and have experience with.

    Jumping into PicEdit Lite will give you the ability to re-size your image and adjust it for generating the gcode in PicLaser Lite. The power level range that can be used is between S0 and S255.

    I have posted some examples of photo engravings on this forum and specify the settings I used with the EmBlaser, so that should give you a starting point when using PicLaser Lite.

    No one answered your question, so I thought I would try to help by mentioning how we have done it in the past to cut depths into wood with our Laser Diode and software.

    Jeff
  • Kathryn,
    We have not done much work with engravings this deep.

    The first thing that comes to mind is that you could achieve this with multiple passes, but you may need to clear the soot left behind after each pass to make the next effective.

    Please keep us informed as to how you proceed. Im sure there are many users out there interested in this thread.
  • I have been very successful in re-creating an embossed look on my blocks. The type of wood matters heavily as I am not using maple or pine, but hardwood. The softer woods will engrave deeper, but the harder woods allow sharper lines in the final result. I believe that my kerf can be smaller than it is right now (0.010"), especially when looking at the "Atari" font.

    DSC_4057
  • Kathryn, you have done it! Looks great. Could you supply a close up and the settings/process for cut2d and negative embossing? or even the cut2d file!

    I've only just started learning gcode and all the cut/pic software having recently got my laser but yes this is something I'm very interested in.

    Marley
  • Hi Marley,
    Thank you! It actually looks much better once the laser is properly focused. The picture above was my first attempt with the laser unfocused. Cut2D is very simple to learn and you'll pick it up in no time. Scalable vector graphics are "what you see is what you get". The material I use is hardwood with settings 35mm/sec, 100% power and 1 pass at a 45 degree cross hatch angle (step over value = 0.0045). The negative embossing is dependent upon the material, of course, but I'm just letting you know that these are the settings that worked for my hardwood material. You might want to start there. I recently did a mahogany mail sign for a friend with all settings the same with the exception of the speed (60 mm/sec) and it turned out great.

    -Katy
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