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3D Engraving using PicEngrave Pro 5

edited June 2015 in PicEngrave
This process took a couple of days to get the settings and image edited just right for 3D engraving with our EmBlaser. We used this Depth Map Grayscale image and did some editing to it in Corel Photo Paint first. The first image is how it was originally and the second was after the editing.

jesus_BS

jesus_dS

The settings in PicEngrave Pro 5 was .006" (.1524mm) Pixel Resolution, 85IPM (2159mm/min), 90% Feed Rate Change, Min 20 & Max 255 laser power and we used the Ellipse option, In the black areas around the outside it was running at full power and at 8.5IPM (215.9mm/min) feedrate. It cut .125" (3.175mm) deep in those areas and the wood we used was Poplar again. The engraving is 3.43 (87.12mm) X 5.15 (130.81mm) and took 3 hours 41 minutes to engrave. We are using the default driver amp setting of 1.8a.



This is how it looked after engraving.

3D1

These are after we had taken a plastic bristle brush and water to wash off the soot.

3D2

3D3
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Comments

  • Jeff,

    You guys at Picengrave never cease to amaze us. Fantastic work.
  • Thank you.

    We sure are having fun with new ways to use our software and the EmBlaser. :-)
  • In Cut2D Laser you can import a pvc file...I'm presuming thats short for Photo V Carve, if that's the case could you get some of the same results as in the previous thread with the photo of Jesus?
  • edited June 2015
    Hi Jerry,

    Cut2D or PVC can not generate a gcode to do what I have done with PicEngrave Pro 5. They just do not have the features our software has like our proprietary Feed Rate Change which expands the shade range for engraving enhancement. What I did is, expanded the shades to the point it cut into the wood instead. PVC does not have an Ellipse option either.

    I have done many hours testing with a laser diode and PVC and the gcode it generates is not optimized for laser engraving photos like our PicEngrave Pro 5 or even our PicLaser Lite. That's if someone wanted to try PVC directly with a custom Post Processor with there EmBlaser.

    Our PicLaser Lite can also be used for 3D engraving like this when adding the Feed Rate Change to the gcode afterwards with PicFRC. PLL does not have an Ellipse option though.

    https://darklylabs.com/product/picfrc-download/
  • edited June 2015
    Another example except it's 5.25" (133.35mm) X 6.25" (158.75mm) in size this time. The difference in the settings is I used is a 22 min and a 88% Feed Rate Change which engraved at 10IPM in the black areas. Since there is allot of black areas in this 3D engraving and because of the increased size, it took 7:46:21 time to engrave.

    Sas

    SasC

    3D4

    3D5

    DSC00157
  • These look amazing! What is the exact workflow for this?

    I own PicEngraver Pro.
  • edited June 2015
    Thanks Gabe,

    I posted the PEP5 settings we used. In Photo Paint, I used Bump-Map in the Custom-Effects menu. I just played with the settings until the depth map looked like the second image I posted.

    When engraving, it's important to restrain the wood in some manner. It tends to warp up when cutting it from relieving the stresses in the board.

    We also came up with a very unique Air Assist design and used it with our 3D engravings. It helped considerably with the precision and the depth of cuts. We passed our design on to Darkly Labs for there evaluation and testing and if it meets there approval, they may offer it as an add on accessory for the EmBlaser in the future.
  • Very pleased with the results of this one. Min 20, Max 255, 80IPM (2032mm/min), 88% FRC, .006" (.1524mm) Pixel Resolution and engraved at a 45 degree angle.

    ZGrab3D

    3D10L

    3D11
  • Very impressive. Are they just experiments to see what can be done or perhaps as masters for mould making ?
  • edited June 2015
    Thanks Jared,

    I was just experimenting and demonstrating what can be done with our PEP5 software and the EmBlaser. I'm hoping it will give others to have ideas for other uses, like mold making. Great idea!!

    There is an option in PEP5 that will reverse the powers and Feed Rate Change called "Negative", and you can mirror the image so that would work very good for making a mold of something.

    We could also get it to cut deeper by increasing the Feed Rate Change percentage.

    I was thinking about poring a thick layer of Crystal Clear Polyurethane on the 3D engravings and see if it would give it more of a visual depth effect.
  • edited June 2015
    Just for fun. :-)


  • edited June 2015
    Deleted by me. Should have paid more attention to entire thread and question would have been answered.
  • Hi David,

    There is most likely other image editors, even free ones that has the same effects as Corel Photo Paint does.
  • Did a 3D elevation map of Australia today.

    Started out with this image.

    822px-Topography_of_australia

    I edited it in Photo Paint then added text to it with PicEngrave Pro 5.

    Australia3DWText3

    The settings were the same as the last 3D engraving we did and here is how it came out.

    Australia3D

    Australia3D2
  • That's fantastic Jeff.

    Have you ever considered an exhibition of all your engravings?
  • edited June 2015
    Jeff, Well done. Can you hear me clapping?
  • Thanks guys.

    Never considered an exhibition of our engravings. We have so many piled up here and running out of storage space for them all. :-D
  • This is seriously impressive!!
  • Thank you Pedal.

    It's a long/slow engraving process, but the results are rewarding.
  • This is almost EXACTLY what I bought the laser for in the first place. I am completely lost though. I'm not having too much luck figure out PicEngrave. I've devoted today to playing around with it in hopes of getting the concept thru my thick skull. Thanks for posting these, it gives me hope!
  • Hi and thanks Michael,

    If you have any questions, we are here to help.
  • Here is another 3D engraving example. Our EmBlaser sets on the end of our CNC router table and I was running a spindle photo engraving at the same time as this engraving, so the vibration caused some imperfections. I won't do that again. ((:-B

    I used a recycled piece of Poplar also since it would cut through the previous failed photo engraving test anyway. :-)

    3D11_1
  • Love your work Jeff.
  • Thank you Daryl.
  • Replaced the black background with white and used Skip White Bkgnd.

    Bears
  • This one was done the same way.

    3D Mermaid2
  • Hi hope you don't mind, but I stole the second pic down on your first post, as a test for this 3D lesser cutting stuff. I have both picengrave pro 5.0.19 and picsender. Now im a complete novice at this suff and most of it goes over my head, But iv looked though all the posts on this site and picengrave's forum, as well as the pdf tutorial and instrutions. Well im at a loss, I have set all my settings the same as the ones in pics iv seen, I make the file, open it in picsender and send it. The laser head moves to the start place then just sits there making a noise now and then but not burning and not moving, the laser is on and dose bighten up, but no burn. Then if i hit the cancel button in sender its just locked up. Then I have to quite the program and the emblaser is still making those same noises so I have to turn it off as well. Yet pics I made before in piclaser lite work fine. Any idear's?
  • Lewis,
    I will let Jeff or John respond specifically, but this could be a case of a very low feed-rate being set.

    So the machine is moving so slowly that it appears to just sit in one place.

    Double check your feed-rate and units.

    Its a long shot, but worth a try.
  • these are my settings
    Engraving Profile: Analog/PWM
    Feed Rate: 85.0000 inches/min
    Pixel Resolution: 0.0060 inches
    Max. 3rd Axis Depth: 255.0000 inches
    Min. 3rd Axis Depth: 20.0000 inches
    3rd Axis Safe Value: 0 inches
    X Start Posistion: 0 inches
    Y Start Posistion: 0 inches
    Insert G61/g64: unchecked
    Spindle On/Off: checked
    Comment Gcode: checked
    Start Comments: (
    End Comments: )
    End w/G28: checked
    Horizontal Axis Letter (X): X
    Vertical (Y) Axis Letter: Y
    3rd Axis Letter (Z): Z
    Engraving Angle: Left - 45°
    Ellipse: checked
    Skip White: unchecked
    Negative: unchecked
    Use Feed Rate: checked 90.0%
    Extended Edge: Unchecked
    Extended Edge Fr - in.: 10.0
    all rest is zero or blank
  • Hi Lewis,

    your welcome to use any of our images we post here. If you would like any of the other original images I used to generate the Gcode that I have not posted, let me know and I will post them as well.

    Your problem is, you did not change the default Z for the 3rd Axis Letter to a S. The EmBlaser does not know what to do with a Z command. The S command controls the laser's power level. Use the GRBL PWM Code selection in PicSender also.

    With a 90% Feed Rate Change, Max 3rd Axis Depth of 255 and a set 85IPM, in black areas it will run the laser at full power and at a 8.5IPM feedrate. That is how we are able to cut in the darker areas and varies depths from the shades that are lighter from there.

    I found that 85IPM and 88% Percent Feed Rate Change works the best. With that percentage Feed Rate Change, it will run at 10.2 IPM.

    These 3D engravings take a long time, but the results are stunning. I have been using Poplar, so If you try a different type of wood, you may get different results.

    Let us know how it goes.

    Thanks.
    Jeff
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