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Rusty Linear Bearings!

Rusty
HOLY MOLY!
The parts as you see above have become rusty on both side! :(

Comments

  • Afif,
    This is usually a sign that some materials with chlorine in them have been cut. The corrosion could be a result of that.

    Is the corrosion only on the outside or inside as well?
  • Really? Definitely didn't aware of that :(
    Upon further inspection I believe the corrosion is also on the inside as well.

    Found the part from the local online store. Is this the correct size?
    Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 17.11.13


    Guess I'll have to start working on my filtration system.
  • Forgot to mention that the corrosion also happens to the shoulder bolt as well :(
  • This is the correct size bearing.

    Please be careful with cutting plastics. It is one thing to rust a bearing but your health is much more important. Please take the time to read the 'Safety' section of the User Manual and also the 'Materials property table' in the appendix.
  • With the shoulder bolts, you can carefully clean them with some steel wool and then spray them with a light coating of WD40.

    The bearings will probably need replacing. Make sure you inspect the rails for any rust before you put new bearing on your system. Gently clean them the same way as above

    We can supply you with spares if needed.
  • edited February 2015
    Noted. Thank you very much for the help and the fast response. I think I'm just gonna buy it myself considering that it will take longer time for the item to arrive.

    By the way, is it OK to spray a light coating of WD40 to the rails? Should I put some lubricant that comes with the printer afterwards?
  • Either will work.
    Thinking about it more now, the supplied lubricant would be a better choice because it is odourless. This will keep the bearings lubricated better as well.

    We have designed the electronics section to move air away from the electronic components so there should be no damage to any of the circuitry.

    Let us know if you come up with an good ventilation system.
  • Well, this is what I'm planning to do:
    IMAG0284

    The desktop fan (a Cooler Master JetFlo 120 with nice blue LEDs) will be attached to the phone holder. Bought that specific fan to match with the laser color :) It has a nice design and quite high air flow too at about 95 CFM.
    Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 20.21.26

    There will be activated carbon filter sponge to absorb the smoke.
    Screen Shot 2015-02-04 at 20.26.55

    I'm planning to fabricate 3D parts that will hold the sponge and the fan to the phone holder (probably in April because that's when I will receive the 3D printer). There will be 2 units of this system altogether.

    I already changed the power supply of the printer to a higher amp (4A) in which it will be used to power the fans as well (each of the fan takes 0.4A). A simple circuit will be designed later on.

    What do you think? Any advise?
  • holy moly that didn't take long to rust! What were you cutting? I cut out a cardboard box temporarily and put a giant fan on it. I then lay it over the LB and open the window. It works very good. I plan to redo it with acrylic in the next few days.
  • Brandon posted this in the Tips and Tricks section. Very unsafe cutting/engraving these types of plastics with a laser, not only to the machine, but especially to your health.

    http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussion/114/how-to-identify-polymers
  • Hmmm I will build something as well for a temporary solution.

    These are what I engraved. A bunch of flip flops to giveaway to the local mosque.
    IMAG0281

    @Jeffery
    Thanks for the link. Definitely going to check it out later.

    P/S: I am totally very, very new to laser cutting.
  • A little info on active charcoal filters

    http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question209.htm

    good for absorbing chlorine!
  • I've just remembered that I have access to this kind of smoke absorber in the lab that I stayed! It uses active charcoal filters too. So this will be my temporary solution (because I'm still planning to make my own ventilation system). Nevertheless I will still wait for replacement parts to arrive before the next cutting/engraving project. Won't take the risk of damaging the rails.

    Screen Shot 2015-02-05 at 1.51.45 AM

  • I’ve also noticed a significant amount of rusting on my linear bearings and the head of shoulder bolts after only a couple of test uses but unlike original poster I haven’t been cutting/engraving plastics.

    I finally^ assembled my Emblaser about 10 days ago (2015-03-28) afterwards I made some initial tests runs:
    * First test after focusing was the Sample “Emblaser_VectorTest.nc” into some 3mm ply wood [1]
    * Then I tried a few combinations feed/power to mark & cut white 250 gsm card [2].

    Less then a week later when I went to use the cutter next I noticed the rusting (pictured below).

    Rust

    I can't imagine what has caused the rusting since I've barely used the emblaser, I haven't cut plastic and I've working in a well ventilated area with a 30cm box fan set up on the table to provide additional airflow over the cutting area.

    Is it just cosmetic or should I be looking for other signs of damage?
    Was there a problem with my choice of materials?

    Regards,
    Jonathan

    ^PS: Side note construction took me ~7 hours not counting the many hours spent sanding the perspex edges to a smooth finish (started at 60 grit and worked my way down to 1200grit before finishing with steel wool)

    Links:
    [1] http://www.bunnings.com.au/project-panel-1220-x-810mm-3mm-premium-bc-plywood_p0340268
    [2] http://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/colour-copy-a4-digital-paper-250gsm-125-sheets-sp108830
  • Just bare metal and humidity could cause the parts to rust like that. I would recommend when anyone assembles there EmBlaser and they have some of the SuperLube grease left over for the linear bearings, they apply a thin coat of it onto the outside of the bearings and heads of the shoulder bolts. This will seal/lubricate the bare metal parts and prevent them from rusting.

  • Jonathan,

    That is quite severe rusting over a short period. That level of corrosion is usually associated with cutting materials containing chlorine, which produce corrosive hydrochloric acid fumes. Since this is not your case there is something else going on. Do you live in an environment with high salt content in the air, such as close to the sea?

    Did you wipe down the bearings before installing them? This could have possibly removed the light oil covering on their surface and assisted the corrosion.

    I would recommend removing the bearings and getting the corrosion off with a non abrasive scourer. Only do this to the outside surfaces to bring them to a shiny finish again.

    Then as John suggested, coat them with a very fine film of the superlube grease that came with the kit.

    Also make sure you grease your rails. Corrosion inside the bearings is what you need to be careful of as this will cause the machine to bind and wear your rails.

    Well done polishing the chassis pieces. These are actually polycarbonate and not perspex so I am curious as to how they turned out. Post a pic of the edge finish if you can.

    On a final note, the upgrade kit (v1.0-v1.5) replaces the bearings and gantry assemblies. If you end up upgrading your kit, you will have new shiny bearings.

  • I'll look at disassembling and removing the rust as you've described. I assume with some common sense I can just work through the instructions backwards?

    I'm not sure how much luck I'll have taking the bearings out of the 3d printed parts; it took a lot of force to push them in and I don't want to break anything. I'll let you know how I go.

    The upgrade kit sounds interesting, I'll keep an eye out.

    To answer your other questions: I didn't wipe them before installing but maybe just handling and trouble I had during assembly could've rubbed off the protective layer? It is reasonably humid in Brisbane, Australia but I do not live in a salty environment.

    I've post in Tips and Tricks my polishing of the Polycarbonate panels.
    http://forum.darklylabs.com/index.php?p=/discussion/247/cleaning-up-the-panels-before-construction
  • Hi Jonathan,

    A simpler and safer way to remove the bearings is to insert the linear rod into the gantry carriage bearings and using that to support the bearings as you gently push off the plastic gantry piece. Be careful to avoid too much twisting as this could crack the gantry plastic.

    Thanks for posting your polishing process.
  • I discovered while performing a plumbing repair that the lubrication provided with the Emblaser kit is also called Plumber's Grease and called Magic Lube (PTFE based). At about five american dollars for a tube half the size of a typical toothpaste tube, it will likely last forever.

    I'd like to also suggest that a better protectant for the surfaces that are rusting would be Boeshield T-9. It's a lubricant that also works to prevent surface rust. I applied some to a trailer kept outside and not a single inexpensive bolt has rusted. It's also a great bike chain lube. I gave some to a machinist friend who was using WD-40 on his dial indicators, which were sticking. With the Boeshield T-9, they are no longer sticking.

    The T-9 is pricey in small bottles, but one bottle will last forever with the Emblaser.
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